Out and About

I'll be out for the next few days, spending time with 3rd Battalion, 7th Marines. I'll post some info about my visit with 3/7 when I get back to Camp Fallujah. Ooh Rah!

Holiday Blues and Museum Artifacts

The uniform of BGen. Augustus Collins, 155 BCT, donated by the General for accession into the Marine Corps Museum


Iraqi Army (IA) and Iraqi Police (IP) comic books, distributed by coalition forces in support of "information operations" in Iraq, 2005


Original applications for Fallujah resident and contractor Identification cards, bound for the Marine Corps Museum, December, 2005


Well…it’s the day after Christmas and even in Iraq, a small dose of “post Christmas day blues” has spread throughout the camp. Just like home, the days leading up to Christmas generated an air of excitement about the camp. As Christmas eve approached, the troops became animated and playful, wearing stocking caps instead of boonie covers and greeting one another with “Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Ooh-rah!” Non-stop religious Services were conducted by the various Command Chaplains and packages were rushed from the Fallujah post office to waiting 7-tons or HMMWV’s for transport to the troops before Christmas morning. Laughter and good cheer was the medicine of the day.

As of this morning, everything’s back to normal. Christmas decorations are being dismantled and the excitement of Christmas has passed. The Marines of II MHG and 5/14 Provisional Military Police continue on with their convoy security patrols. The grunts of Regimental Combat Team 8 (RCT-8) headed out this morning, just as they have every morning to conduct cordon and knocks, searches, and raids against high value targets in town. The helos continue to fly over the camp, one buzzing overhead as I write this post. Today, at least one CH-46 medevac landed at Fallujah surgical, bearing wounded Marines. A Cobra gunship providing security escort passed overhead as the 46 touched down to drop off its payload. Life continues, and so continues the carnage and violence that separates us from our counterparts at Camp Lejeune, Quantico and Camp Pendleton. Christmas has come and gone, the goodwill and cheer a fading memory as Marines put their noses to the grindstone and push forward with their daily routine.

Our work never really stopped. It was merely downplayed by the joyous feelings that Christmas brings to each and every Marine deployed. Opening a care package on Christmas day, no matter how big or small, was just as exciting to us as that gift we tore into as a 9 year old at home, many years back. The Marines here are kids at heart. Yesterday, we were all thinking of home, of family and of Christmas’ past.

Today, we are back at work, our minds refreshed, the holiday over. I am back to conducting interviews with the Marines of 5/14, and will be departing Camp Fallujah in a couple days to spend a week with an infantry unit north of my current location. Once again, I am looking forward to getting out of Camp Fallujah and the garrison environment it has become. Going to the field is a welcome relief I am fortunate to experience.

In addition to the interviews I conduct with Marines across the area of operations (AO), my duties include collecting unique artifacts for accession into the Marine Corps Museum. I’ve always had a fascination with historical memorabilia and militaria, and though I’m neither a historian nor a museum curator, this deployment has helped turn my fascination into an official duty, if only for the duration of this deployment. I’m actually charged with looking for such items on behalf of the Marine Corps Museum, some of which may one day be found on display in a museum or archived for the use by military historians.

Museum artifacts come in all shapes and sizes. I’ve had to alter my preconceived ideas about what actually constitutes an artifact. My pre-deployment concept of an artifact was a simply a weapon or a uniform, perhaps a war trophy of some sort. However, artifacts are much more varied than just guns, trucks or uniforms. Imagine the value of an original, unmarked booklet of ballots from the Iraqi national elections held December 15th, 2005. In 50 years, that very book of ballots will be a museum curators dream. Though merely a ballot book to most, a museum curator immediately sees its value to future researchers and historians.

I’ve been fortunate to come across some great artifacts while deployed. A box of artifacts sits in my workspace at Camp Fallujah, waiting to be mailed to the museum curator at Quantico. I’ve picked up many items, such as original election and referendum ballots; coalition “propaganda” handbills posted on Iraqi lamp posts and an Arabic copy of the Iraqi constitution circulating the streets of Fallujah. I’ve received a cassette tape filled with anti-American rhetoric, captured from insurgents in Iraq, and possess an Iraqi martyr flag found balled up in a vacant Fallujan home by Warrant Officer Fay. We are hoping to get our hands on a collection of weapons captured from the insurgents by Marines from RCT-2, to include some fantastic AK-47’s, RPK’s, pistols, knives, swords and various hand-made rocket launchers and RPG tubes made with PVC pipe and sheer ingenuity. Just this evening, a young Marine popped into my work space and hand delivered one of the camouflage utility uniforms worn in Iraq by Brigadier General Augustus Collins, Brigade Commander for the 155 BCT, II MEF (Fwd). General Collins was kind enough to offer his uniform when I asked if he'd be interested in donating it to the museum. A man of his word, the General promised and delivered. The 155 leaves Iraq this month after spending the last year in the Babil Province, fighting the insurgency and turning over parts of the AO to the Iraqi Police (IP) and Iraqi Army (IA). His uniform may one day adorn a mannequin at the Smithsonian or other museum, as General Collins was the first African-American General in the Mississippi National Guard, and the first to command a National Guard Brigade in combat while serving subordinate to a major Marine Corps chain of command.

Christmas, 2005

Marines and sailors sing Christmas Carols outside the Camp Chapel, Dec. 24, 2005


Our Cammie-netting Christmas tree outside of DFAC-1, Camp Fallujah


Serving line decorations inside the Dining Facility


LtCol. Pat Carroll plays "Jingle Bells" atop building 33 on Christmas Day, 2005 at Camp Fallujah


LtCol Craig Covert, Christmas Day, 2005 Camp Fallujah, Iraq

Today is Christmas day. Despite being away from home, most Marines have tried to get into the Christmas spirit. Decorations are everywhere around the camp, hanging in offices, living quarters and work spaces. The dining facility staff set up a Christmas tree next to the serving line and hung decorations from the ceiling. Outside the chowhall, a makeshift Christmas tree stands near the entrance, camouflage netting filling in for pine needles. It was pretty funny watching the TCN’s, or third country nationals, trying to construct the tree. The workers, most of them Iraqi, Indian or Filipino, stood around the tree in a gaggle and argued about what a Christmas tree should actually look like. I imagine they received their marching orders from one of the dining facility managers who’d merely told them to construct a Christmas tree for the troops. A recording of Christmas music plays continuously on a looped soundtrack, sounding like a broken record playing under water. Even funnier are the Marines who jump into the sleigh and start yelling at the reindeer to take them to the North Pole. The tree and music gives everyone a chuckle.

Some Marines express their Christmas spirit in more unique ways. Just an hour ago, I heard the distant sound of Christmas carols outside the building I share with the 6th Provisional CAG. I stepped outside and found the music was coming from the rooftop. Climbing a ladder on the side of our building, I found several Marines from the CAG taking photos and listening to LtCol. Patrick Carroll play Christmas carols on his bagpipes. There’s nothing like the sound of bagpipes playing to send a shiver up and down your spine, even if it is a Christmas carol instead of Taps or a battle hymn.

A Personal Request

During this deployment, Mr. Peter H. Covert and Mr. George F. Frazier, my father and step-father, both succumbed to cancer. This horrible disease continues to claim the lives of millions of other Americans who will never have the opportunity to live a full and productive life. With luck, successful research will one day stop this disease from bringing sorrow to so many families.

As you prepare for Christmas and head out to purchase those last minute gifts, please consider making a small donation to the American Cancer Society, the National Cancer Institute, or a local or national charity organization of your choice.

The Provisional MP's

Camp Farrar, named after Sgt. Andrew K. Farrar Jr., who was killed in action in the Al Anbar Province on Jan. 28, 2005


Corporal Aaron A. DeSalvo with his Military Working Dog, Bako at Camp Falluja, Iraq, December 22, 2005


I spent the day with Marines from the 5/14 Provisional Military Police Battalion, located at Camp Farrar, a small enclosed commune located within the perimeter of Camp Fallujah. The camp was named after Sgt. Andrew K. Farrar Jr., who was killed in action in the Al Anbar Province on Jan. 28, 2005. Units often rename their camps throughout the area of operations or as an honor to a hero in their service.

The military police officer's death was a tragedy for his unit, A Company, 2nd Military Police Battalion, and even more so for his family. Farrar was killed on his 31st birthday. The Weymouth, Mass., native left behind a wife and two children. He also left a lasting impression on his fellow Marines. "I think about Andrew everyday," said Sgt. Jonathan Bates, an accident investigator stationed at Marine Corps Air Station Beaufort, S.C. "He taught me that Marines want to be led, and
that it's my job to step up and lead them." Farrar's impact on Bates went
beyond the ranks. "I had the privilege of calling him my friend," he said.

While at Camp Farrar, I interviewed Several Marines, to include the Battalion S-6 Officer (CommO), the Officer in Charge of the Evaluation Assessment training Team (EATT), the unit legal clerk, and a female Regional Detention Facility (RDF) guard team member. It was an eclectic collection of Marines, ranging in rank from Lance Corporal to Captain. Although I was planning to travel to Ar Ramadi and Blue Diamond tomorrow, I have decided at the last minute to cancel my trip to continue my collection efforts with 5/14, thereby permitting myself to enjoy Christmas day in the comfort of my own little home away from home. I'll head north sometime after Christmas.

The last time 5th Battalion, 14th Marines, 4th Marine Division, was deployed to a combat zone, Franklin D. Roosevelt was president and the United States was in a world war against the Japanese in the South Pacific. Although 5th Bn., 14th Marines is an artillery unit by trade, they deployed as a provisional military police battalion with Marines coming from various active duty and reserve units throughout the Marine Corps. It includes 1st Battalion, 14th Marines, an active duty MP Company from Camp Pendleton, a TOW Company from 25th Regiment, MP’s from Louisiana and Minnesota, and Marines from 4th Force Reconnaissance from Hawaii and Reno, Nevada. The battalion is tasked with four main missions while serving in Iraq: area security, convoy security, law enforcement and operating five detention facilities throughout Al Anbar province.

Many of the reservists are civilian law enforcement officers or corrections personnel who are applying their civilian skill sets within their new environment. The very first interview I conducted was with the Battalion Executive Officer, himself a Special Agent with the Drug Enforcement Administration. These Marines have come together from all walks of life, intent on contributing to the continuing fight for democracy in Iraq.

Following today’s interviews, I stopped by the Military Working Dog (MWD) facility to take some photographs of the dog handlers with their canines. Corporal Aaron A. DeSalvo recognized me as I sauntered into the compound and immediately volunteered to bring his dog “Bako” out of his doggy-prison and into the yard, which DeSalvo refers to as the dog’s playground. As I prepared to snap some photos of Bako, the dog snapped back, growling and barking at me from several feet away. Holding Bakos’ leash tightly, Cpl. DeSalvo let me know in no uncertain terms that I should quicken my pace before Bako got the best of his leash. I didn’t argue. Although Bako is trained to sniff out explosives and other incendiary devices, I have no doubt that he might easily double as an attack dog. I didn't stick around to find out.

A New Start

A photo of Ansam Shahib Ahmed, a translator at the Civil Military Operations Center (CMOC) in Fallujah, Iraq, casting her vote on National Election Day, Dec. 15, 2005

Dec. 16. - An incredible firefight erupted outside the CMOC last night, starting with a few scattered pops from an AK-47. Within seconds, a crescendo of gunfire echoed throughout the city, the night alive with machine gun fire from AK’s and RPK’s. The first firefight was short-lived and trailed off after 45 seconds but was followed by longer, more sustained display of small arms fire about 10 minutes later. At first, the Marines of the CMOC reacted normally, accustomed to the sound of occasional gunfire. However, the sheer volume and intensity of the 2nd firefight gunfire caused more concern than usual and soon the shouts of “gear up, gear up” were being yelled down the hallways.

Through the evening, the sound of Iraqi Police sirens wailed in the distance. The night air was alive, and one could easily close their eyes and imagine they were in New York City. Perhaps the commotion was a reaction to the elections and the closure of the polling sites. Whatever the cause, this was a night of remembrance for Iraqis eager to start a new lease on life.

I finished the day’s interviews with the Director of the CMOC, LtCol. Eloy Campos. Eloy is a Cuban native who emigrated to the US at the age of 15. Commissioned in the US Marine Corps in 1985, he has directed the operations of the CMOC and its Marines since early September. It is my opinion that the elections in Al Anbar Province would not have been successful without the direct intervention of the CMOC Marines. Whether sponsoring meetings for local officials, providing basic necessities for the Iraqi Election Committee members, our hosting international media representatives present to report on the election process, the CMOC directly contributed to the success of yesterdays elections.

From the Los Angeles Times:

Iraq Vote Is Seen As Step Forward

Some hope the relatively calm elections portend a waning of violence. Pragmatists note the tough task of forming a government lies ahead.

By Richard Boudreaux, Times Staff Writer

BAGHDAD — The Sunni imam stood before 400 worshipers during Friday prayers in Abu Hanifa Mosque and weighed the meaning of the previous day's big election turnout by Sunni Arab voters.

It was too soon to tell how many Sunnis would sit in Iraq's new parliament, Sheik Ahmad Taha said in his sermon. But he prayed that the minority's belated entry into electoral politics would, with the help of God, bring an end to bloodshed and "free our land from American occupation."

Expressed in different words, that goal was shared by the Bush administration and leaders across Iraq's sectarian and ethnic divides. It is a vision that could again prove elusive, however, as Iraqis count votes, seat a 275-member Council of Representatives and wrangle over the makeup of a government in the weeks ahead.

Pragmatists caution that Thursday's election, with its greater Sunni participation, would not by itself halt the Sunni-led insurgency or prompt the United States to start withdrawing troops.

Yet Western officials, Iraqi politicians and many voters say enough was different about this election to suggest that it could mark a turning point.

"I do not want to say we have achieved the big breakthrough we were looking for," said a Western diplomat who has tracked Iraq's nascent democracy and relentless insurgency over the last year. "This is going to be a long process. But yesterday was definitely a step forward."

Sunnis dominated Iraq's leadership during the rule of Saddam Hussein but disassociated themselves from politics after his ouster by U.S. forces in 2003. Last January, Sunnis boycotted the election of an interim parliament, enabling the Shiite Muslim majority to control the interim government in alliance with ethnic Kurds.

This time Sunni political parties, including some with ties to the insurgents, were on the ballot. Clerics in Sunni mosques across the country urged their followers to vote, and several insurgent groups agreed to refrain from targeting voters.

In January, insurgents staged more than 250 attacks on election day, killing 44 people. This time, U.S. military officials counted 18 attacks on polling stations. Eight people died.

In Shiite mosques Friday, religious leaders declared the election a success, saying it had undermined the insurgency.

"For those who were saying they have been marginalized and excluded from political life, this pretext for terrorism no longer exists," declared Jalaluddin Saghir in his sermon at the Bratha Mosque in Baghdad.

But few expect the insurgents to hold their fire for long, even as some Sunnis expected to be elected to the new council are likely to press an agenda similar to the insurgents'.

"This is not going to stop violence," President Bush said during an interview Friday on the PBS program "NewsHour." "There are still people out there that are going to try to affect the political outcome, the political debate, with violence."

Sunni politicians and voters insist on a withdrawal of U.S. troops from Sunni cities in central and western Iraq. They seek the release of Sunni prisoners held without charges and an end to killings of Sunni detainees, reportedly at the hands of the Shiite-run Interior Ministry and Shiite militias.

They also want the council to limit decentralization of powers in order to prevent Kurds in the north and Shiites in the south from controlling most of Iraq's oil wealth or breaking away.

Before those explosive issues can be addressed, Iraq faces weeks of vote counting and horse-trading.

The United Iraqi Alliance, the Shiite coalition that has led the interim government, is again expected to fall short of winning a majority of the votes cast. That would require it to bargain with other blocs over the selection of the president, prime minister, and Cabinet ministers.

Such talks can spark violence. Iraqis saw a rise in insurgent bombings during the nearly three months it took to form the interim government early this year.

With official returns from Thursday's vote not expected for a week or more, Sunni parties have already challenged the fairness of elections in parts of Iraq.

They charge that some Sunni districts were deprived of ballots and some Sunni voters were kept from the polls by armed gangs or militias affiliated with Shiite and ethnic Kurdish parties. Irregularities and intimidation could cost Sunnis as many as 10 seats, their leaders say.

But so far, they have been careful to avoid discrediting the entire election.

"Our people's determination is to go forward with the process," said Iyad Samarrai of the Tawafaq front, a leading Sunni coalition. "I don't think there will be a regression."

Sunnis are expected to gain representation in line with their share of Iraq's population. The electoral system divides 230 of the 275 parliamentary seats by province, and Sunni candidates could get as many as one-fifth of those directly elected seats.

Their ability to bargain for Cabinet posts will diminish, however, if returns from those regions scatter votes widely among competing Sunni parties. Among the many contenders are the Iraqi Consensus Front, led by the Iraqi Islamic Party, whose support helped the U.S.-backed constitution survive an Oct. 15 referendum, and a ticket led by Saleh Mutlak, a former member of Hussein's Baath Party, who opposed the charter.

Both Sunni groups say they intend to test their power by trying to amend the constitution, especially to strengthen the central government. It is a battle they say the insurgents, who are fragmented into dozens of groups, will watch closely. The Sunnis are unlikely to succeed in their efforts.

"The process for constitutional revision stacks the deck very much against any attempts at change," said Nathan Brown, a senior associate at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace in Washington. To avoid a standoff, he added, "we will need to see flexibility not only from the Sunnis but from Shiite and Kurdish leaders."

Sunnis are also expected to press the new government to set a timetable for withdrawal of U.S. troops, first from Sunni cities and then from the rest of the country.

About 30,000 troops, whose return to the United States had been delayed until after the election, are expected to leave soon, putting American troop levels at 137,000. Any further reduction would be subject to agreement between the new Iraqi leadership and the United States, and would depend on Iraq's ability to build up its own armed forces, U.S. officials say.

Whether political compromise and a drawdown of U.S. forces will weaken the insurgency is a different question.

Insurgent sympathizers said in interviews after voting Thursday that the rebels had simply adopted politics as another weapon and would fight both inside and outside the government against American troops and Shiite targets.

As Sunnis take their seats in parliament, the government is expected to hear arguments — once considered taboo — that the only effective way to blunt the insurgency is to negotiate directly with "nationalist" insurgent leaders. By that they mean Sunnis not affiliated with Al Qaeda in Iraq, the terrorist group led by Jordanian-born militant Abu Musab Zarqawi.

"The government needs to differentiate between terrorism and resistance and to negotiate with the resistance, invite it into the government," said Samarrai, the Sunni political leader, who is expected to win a seat in parliament.

"If the government rejects this, the violence will increase."

Times staff writers Edwin Chen in Washington and Ashraf Khalil, Caesar Ahmed and Raheem Salman in Baghdad contributed to this report.

Election Day

Today is Dec. 15, election day. I’ve spent the last 3 days inside the CMOC in the heart of Fallujah. The CMOC, or Civil Military Operations Center was once a children’s center in the city, but was abandoned some time ago. It is now the home of Marines from the 6th Provisional Civil Affairs Group (6th CAG). Located in the center of the city, it has become a safe-haven for Iraqi interim government officials, Sheiks and other religious leaders needing a secure place to meet and conduct business. It is also a gathering place for Fallujans seeking claims against the military. The claims range from damaged vehicle and homes to compensation for family members accidentally injured or killed by American troops. The CMOC itself is surrounded by concertina and Hescoes, with Marines standing watch at a number of observation posts (OP) around the compound. Iraqi Police (IP) stand watch outside the entry control point (ECP), the first layer of defense against threats to the compound. The IP’s also represent US efforts to slowly turn over security of the towns and cities and towns to the Iraqi forces, though Marines hover silently in the background.

Getting to the CMOC is still a dangerous venture for US forces. IP checkpoints are scattered along the route and have dramatically decreased the number of areas where IED’s can be placed. Unfortunately, the threat still remains. On Monday, a Marine Corps 7-ton truck from RCT-8, Camp Fallujah was attacked by a suicide vehicle borne improvised explosive device (SVBIED), or suicide car bomber. The bomber swerved his vehicle into the side of the 7-ton and detonated his explosives, instantly vaporizing himself and most of his car. The 7-ton was damaged, but the new Marine Armor Kit (MAK) affixed to the 7-ton kept the vehicle from being totally destoyed. The two Marines inside the 7-ton cab were injured and one passed away on Wednesday from his wounds. Fortunately, the driver survived and will be able to return to his family. A very sad situation for the families involved.

The Marines of 6th CAG are Marine Corps reservists who have returned to active duty to conduct civil-military operations in country. Civil-Military operations (CMO) can include any sort of community or economic improvement project funded, organized or coordinated by the US Military and other US Government Agencies (OGA), such as the United States Agency for Independent Development (USAID) or the US Department of State. Whether processing a claim, speaking to a Sheik about repairs to a road or Mosque, or organizing national elections, the CAG Marines remain committed to rebuilding vice warfighting. The CAG staff works closely with the community leaders to build cooperation and trust, little of which could be found in Iraq until this year.

The efforts of the CAG have garnered the trust of many Fallujah residents who would not have dared venture near the CMOC a year ago. In 2004, Fallujah was the site of the single largest military operation against the insurgency since President Bush declared an end to hostilities in 2003. In an effort to route Fallujah of the insurgents who had taken control of the city over the preceding months, I MEF plowed through the city in a massive, coordinated military attack. Marines methodically cleared houses and mosques, searching building by building as they pushed through the city blocks. We lost many Marines, but also killed hundreds of insurgents who vowed to fight to the death against the coalition forces. In the process, hundreds of the city structures were destroyed. These buildings still bear the scars of war – bullet holes pockmark the exteriors; roofs and walls lie crumbled in piles where grand structures once stood. The city remains a wasteland bearing a remarkable semblance to Berlin and London following air raids in World War II. Since that time, however, the Marine Corps and OGA have made a herculean effort to reverse the damage inflicted upon the city by helping rebuild the city.

An incredible amount of money has flowed to Iraq for the reconstruction and rebuilding efforts. Until recently, most of the money used for these efforts came from frozen Iraqi assets held since the UN imposition of sanctions in 1991. Billions of dollars were frozen around the globe. From the New York City Federal Reserve alone, several billion dollars in cash were transferred to waiting 747’s and flown directly to the Baghdad International Airport (BIAP), ready to be distributed by the coalition. Further, a separate “oil for food” fund was tapped into and brought thousands of tons of consumer goods into the country. The US and other countries have also invested large amounts of their own monies into the rebuilding effort, though the majority came directly from money that Saddam stole away over the years during his dictatorship.

At this very minute, the CMOC is crawling with reporters covering the national elections. Today is a historic moment…it will be the first time in decades that Iraqis will elect their own government. Many Iraqis have no knowledge of politics or of the political candidates themselves and will vote for the person endorsed by their Sheik or tribal leader. Regardless, this election is the first step toward the formation of democracy in Iraq.

Their hope hinges on our success

Photos taken by Brien Aho, MNCI-Combat Camera

Loneliness and relief

I’m on my third day back at Camp Fallujah and have finally reached a point in my deployment where I no longer feel guilty for sleeping past 0700. For the first half of my deployment, I felt incredibly guilty if I wasn’t up by 0630, eating chow and planning my day. Maybe LtCol. Tim Crowley’s philosophy has finally rubbed off on me. While back at Al Asad, Tim regularly slept till 1000 or 1030 every morning. Yet in the field, Tim operated at a marathon pace, expending 100% of his energy throughout his visit. He balanced this expenditure by relaxing in the rear. Warrant Officer Fay and I used to get a good laugh out of Tim knowing he was still in the rack long after we’d eaten breakfast. Now, that attitude of “I’ve gotta get up” has finally left my system. For weeks, I felt I was shirking my Marine Corps responsibilities by sleeping through breakfast. I’ve come to the realization that nobody here gives a damn whether I sleep late or not. In fact, very few people here even know who I am, much less care about my schedule.

We operate in a very different environment from home. For many, there are no set hours, formations to attend, or meetings to make. Every Officer operates in his own little bubble and takes little notice of those around him unless they share the same room or office. It’s sad, really. Despite the hundreds of Marines surrounding me, I don’t know the name of a single resident within my very own berthing area. We share the same bathroom and live only feet apart, yet we’ve never taken the time to introduce ourselves to each other. We isolate ourselves in our own busy worlds. It’s similar to living in New York City where people go out of their way to avoid their neighbors. As long as we accomplish our individual missions – mine collecting oral history interviews – when and how we do it remains inconsequential to everyone else.

That’s what I dislike about this job. I am isolated in a crowd. Though deployed with II MEF (Fwd), I am not “one of them.” I am an individual Marine without a unit. The unit is the heart and soul of the Marine Corps. Marines instinctively depend upon their buddies in their fire team or squad; they rely upon the guidance of their platoon and company leaders; they embrace the cohesion of their Battalion and Regiment. Marines train together, eat together, and deploy together. They value the camaraderie of the unit, of the team. That is the part of this job I regret. I have no team. This position is the antithesis to Marine Corps philosophy. Teamwork is the ethos of a Marine.

Yet, there are benefits to deploying as a Field Historian. I am my own boss. I am not confined to a TOC or COC, working 14 hour shifts, fighting the clock to get my report to the Colonel or General before deadline. I make my own schedule and do my own thing, and THAT is precisely why I’ve felt guilty for the last 3 months. The Marine Corps despises complacency and disorder. It is an organization that relies on uniformity and the willingness to follow direction, to follow orders that may result in injury or death on the battlefield. It is an organization that has successfully won major battles and conflicts because of Marines' unflinching willingness to follow the rules and operate within set guidelines, to operate within a framework built around schedules and timelines. From the day we first set foot into recruit training or OCS, we are told what to do, how to do it, and when to do it. We are supervised as we do it. None of those rules apply here. I am free to travel the AO, to escape the confines of my base and be with the Marines at the tip of the spear. I operate in a manner that is unlike any prior deployment or billet I’ve previously held.

The loneliness of this position is countered by meeting Marines, sailors and soldiers who pour out their hearts to me, sharing memories and experiences that will one day captivate future generations of Marines and patriots. Their stories reflect heroics and bravery, despair and loss. I am honored to spend time with these heroes who give so much in return for so little. They are kids who possess wisdom beyond their years. The honor of collecting these experiences and spending time with these young men and women far outweighs the moments of loneliness I face back at Camp Fallujah.

I will soon depart the confines of the Camp and integrate with the 6th Provisional Civil Affairs Group, or CAG. The CAG is extremely busy right now, preparing for the Iraqi National elections that will occur in 5 days. December 15, 2005 will be a historic event for the citizens of Iraq and I plan to be part of it, if only a spectator.

A Dec. 8, 2005 story from the Washington Post describes local interest in the elections:


In Iraq, Signs Of Political Evolution

Parties That Shunned January Vote Are Now Embracing the Process
By Jonathan Finer, Washington Post Foreign Service

BAGHDAD, Dec. 7 -- Tucked into a bunker-like former headquarters of Saddam Hussein's Baath Party, a type of war room unfamiliar in this country buzzed with life Wednesday. Halfway through a 14-hour shift, campaign workers from the Iraqi Islamic Party, a Sunni Arab group that boycotted the country's previous elections in January, munched rice and kebabs, their faces lit by computer screens.
Across town, hundreds of black-clad followers of the radical Shiite cleric Moqtada Sadr -- who decried balloting 10 months ago as something imposed under American occupation -- beat their backs with chains and stomped across a large poster of former interim prime minister Ayad Allawi. Sadr's political wing has joined forces with the alliance of Shiite religious parties that leads Iraq's current government and opposes Allawi's secular movement.

As Iraqis nationwide prepare to go to the polls for the third time this year on Dec. 15 -- this time for a new parliament -- candidates and political parties of all stripes are embracing politics, Iraqi style, as never before and showing increasing sophistication about the electoral process, according to campaign specialists, party officials and candidates here.

"It is like night and day from 10 months ago in terms of level of participation and political awareness," said a Canadian election specialist with the National Democratic Institute for International Affairs, a group affiliated with the U.S. Democratic Party that is working to ease Iraq's transition to democracy. The institute, which has provided free campaign training to more than 100 Iraqi parties and describes its programs as nonpartisan, granted a reporter access to its employees and training sessions on the condition that no one on its staff be named.
Evidence of political evolution is plastered all over Baghdad's normally drab concrete blast walls and hung on lampposts at nearly every major intersection: large, colorful, graphically appealing posters conveying a wide variety of punchy messages.

Television and radio airwaves are replete with slick advertisements costing anywhere from $1,250 per minute on al-Sumariya, a Lebanon-based satellite station focused on Iraq, to $5,000 per minute on al-Arabiya, a network based in the United Arab Emirates that is popular across the Arab world.

In one 30-second spot, a smartly dressed and smiling Allawi -- normally known for his brusque demeanor -- is shown seated on a stool in a dimly lit studio. "My faith is in Iraq," he tells the camera, to underscore his secularism.

Even the arrival of American-style negative campaigning is evidence of a growing political sophistication, the election trainers said. In recent days posters have started to appear in Sadr City, the vast Shiite slum in north Baghdad, bearing the slogan "vote for the Baathist slate," along with a composite photograph of a face -- half Allawi's and half Hussein's. Allawi was a member of Hussein's Baath Party until the mid-1970s, when he joined Iraq's opposition.

In January, most candidates outside the dominant few parties largely eschewed campaigning, fearing they could be kidnapped or assassinated. Now, even long shots are getting into the act. One day this week, National Democratic Institute instructors explained get-out-the-vote techniques to a dozen members of the Free Iraq Gathering, a new coalition that "probably won't get many more votes than you see in that room," according to an institute employee.

In another room, a Canadian taught workers from the Iraqi National Congress, the party led by Deputy Prime Minister Ahmed Chalabi, how to monitor polling stations on election day to prevent cheating and ensure their supporters are able to vote.
"You are the eyes of the party," he said, warning them to look out for husbands trying to cast ballots for their wives or tribal leaders seeking to vote for their members. "Your party may have the best solutions for Iraq, but it doesn't mean a thing unless people come and put a ballot in the box. You have to think, I have seen Mustafa and Mazen vote, but if someone is missing, maybe you call them up and offer them a ride to the polls."

As in January, the specter of election-related violence still hangs over Iraq. Insurgents have distributed leaflets throughout Anbar province, the center of the Sunni-led insurgency, threatening to kill anyone who attempts to vote. An Iraqi Islamic Party candidate was gunned down with two party workers on a highway west of Baghdad late last month. Allawi escaped unscathed from an attack by armed demonstrators in Najaf during a visit there Sunday, and two days later, a rocket-propelled grenade struck his party's Najaf office.

In several cities in the Kurdish-populated north on Tuesday, demonstrators believed to be loyal to the Kurdistan Democratic Party burned down several local headquarters of a rival party, the Kurdistan Islamic Union, whose members recently withdrew from a KDP-led election coalition. Four party workers were reportedly killed in the incidents.

Because of this, several candidates and party workers said, they cannot apply much of the advice they get from foreign election workers. At one recent session, candidates were encouraged to knock on doors or approach people in restaurants or cafes to talk about issues. They were told to write letters and send them to everyone they know, outlining their platforms.

"You could get killed . . . and we don't have mail there," said Khalid Madhia, a Free Iraqi Gathering candidate from Fallujah. "But it is much easier this time. Before, we were running while we were hiding. We don't have to hide anymore."
Instead of retail politics, candidates rely largely on less direct means of contacting voters: Most major parties now have interactive Internet sites that provide information about platforms. Several parties employ cell phone text-messaging technology that allows them to send messages to hundreds of potential supporters at once. Funding comes from dues and donations paid by members.
Religious leaders are also playing a prominent role in the campaign through networks of affiliated mosques, where imams divide their sermons into a religious discussion and a political discourse that often touches on the coming vote.

At the Iraqi Islamic Party headquarters, hundreds of cardboard boxes full of posters waited to be taken by truck to regional outposts in 14 of Iraq's 18 provinces. In another room, video editors scrutinized the latest version of the party's television ad asking voters to help "end the U.S. occupation." The spot runs continuously on an in-house satellite station.

The party had originally decided to compete in last January's elections despite a broad Sunni Arab boycott, but it eventually withdrew. Sunni Arabs, who account for an estimated 20 percent of Iraq's population, held most top positions in the Hussein government but have seen their influence erode significantly since his ouster.
"Everyone here is excited. The mood and busyness are so much better than before when we just waited to see what would happen," said B.B. Abdul Qadir, an Iraqi Islamic Party official who said his party's goal was to win 60 seats in the 275-seat parliament. "Now we can't wait for the voting to start."

Correspondent Ellen Knickmeyer and special correspondents Naseer Nouri and Dlovan Brwari contributed to this report.

A Soldiers Tribute

The shirtsleeve of Command Sergeant Major Johnny Marlow, 1/155th Infantry Battalion (the "Missippi Rifles"), part of II MEF (Fwd), listing the fallen soldiers of the Battalion who gave their lives while deployed in the Babil Province. December 6, 2005

Storytellers

During my deployment, I have run across several Marines and soldiers who can weave a story that draws you right in.... I am simply a conduit that will allow the Marine Corps to capture the stories that will benfit our future Marines and soldiers. I sit smugly to the right; the truly gifted storytellers inlcude such folks as:

LEFT: Staff Sgt. Kevin Manix, Squad Leader, 3rd Plt., Bravo Company, 1/155
RIGHT: Staff Sgt. Michael R. Cooper, Tank Section Sgt (A section) Delta Company, 1/155

The Babil Province

I've just returned to Camp Fallujah after spending the last 8 days in the Babil Province south of Baghdad. My time was split between two FOB's, or forward operating bases located near the cities of Al Iskandariyah and Al Musayyib. The Babil province derives its name from the ancient city of Babylon, which was part of three old civilizations in Iraq: the Sumerian civilization in the south, the Babylonian civilization in the middle, and the Assyrian and Accadian in the north. Al Hillah, the capitol of this province, is an agrarian dream - tall stands of Palm groves cover
the area, criss-crossed with canals and waterways that bring life to the desert. From the air, the palm groves and agricultural farms lie in stark contrast to the desert sands accumulating just beyond their boundries. Locals call the area Al-Fayhaa, which means "a beautiful garden."

The day after I arrived in the province, the 2nd Iraqi Army Brigade successfully completed its certification process which allows the Iraqis to take over counter-insurgency operations from the coalition forces and exercise primary security responsibility over its residents. The exam confirmed that the brigade is ready to plan and conduct military activities dependently, opening the way for coalition forces to hand over security responsibility to Iraqi army units. Military support will be given only in emergencies by a quick-reaction force, medical evacuation or air support. However, Multinational division military advisers and trainers will still monitor 2nd Brigade activities.

The 2nd Iraqi Brigade consists of two battalions situated in different places within the province. It numbers about 1,800 soldiers equipped in light armored vehicles with a variety of weapons. Publicly available reports state the brigade has taken part in five combat operations so far in cooperation with coalition forces. During these operations, 2nd Brigade soldiers searched hundreds of vehicles, persons and buildings, seizing illegal weapons and a large amount of ammunition as well as effecting the detention of many terrorism suspects. During Iraq's Oct. 15 constitutional referendum, the 2nd Brigade established 41 checkpoints and 12 mobile patrols, effectively preventing attacks which had previously injured or killed a number of Marines and soldiers assigned to the Province.

Here are the journal entries I wrote during my latest field evolution. I apologize for the length of the latest entry...

November 30, 2005

Once again, I managed to scam a Blackhawk helicopter ride across the province. It was smoother, quieter, and more comfortable than the standard Marine Corps CH-46 Sea Knight. The "46" was introduced to the military inventory in 1964, and a fair share of the helos still flying have seen service in Vietnam, Panama, and Desert Storm. Despite updated engines and hydraulics, they've outlived their expected shelf life and are soon to be replaced by the new Osprey Aircraft, a tilt-rotor aircraft with a mixture of helicopter and airplance characteristics.

The starkness of the desert is quite distracting. I was completely relaxed and had little concern for my safety as we skimmed across the sands, a naïve mindset to take on in this AO. Occasionally, you'd fly above a shepards house in the middle of nowhere, the structure nothing more than a mud or adobe brick hut. No doors or windows, many without roofs, and certainly no electricity or running water. Occasionally, I caught glimpses of children playing in the sand, or a villager carrying water from large holes dug deep into the desert. I ponder how the people of the desert can live in such conditions and thrive despite the lack of water, resources and infrastructure. Unfortunately, the desert residents share a common denominator with their city counterparts - poor sanitation. The Iraqi solution to ridding oneself of household refuse is to throw it outside the door or on the ground wherever one stands. Trash is everywhere, blowing around in the breeze, littering the landscape as far as the eye can see. Some towns are so covered in garbage that roadway medians have literaly formed walls of trash separating the lanes of travel. Some fault may lie with the lack of money and degraded support to areas outside of Baghdad and Tikrit since 1991. However, the majority of Iraqis show little concern for the environment they live in and seem indifferent to the filth surrounding them. It's certainly a cultural difference that's hard to understand.

Outside the towns, few paved roads carry passenger to their destinations. Dirt roads comprise the majority of travel routes across the country; vehicles create billowing clouds of dust that covers everything and everyone. The simple structures these people use for homes cannot keep out the dirt and dust, much less provide a comfortable, hospitable living environment for its occupants. I question whether the average Iraqi understands that a clean and safe environment would improve their general health and well-being. Children often play barefoot in the contaminated water and are sometimes so completely covered in filth that their hair takes on the reddish-brown hues of the soil, all of them appearing to sport auburn highlights in their jet black hair.

My journey to the Province ended at FOB Kalsu, home to the remaining elements of the 155th Brigade Combat Team, most of whom are headed home by the end of the month. As I gathered my gear and walked toward the transient tent, I sighted Major Erby Montgomery sauntering my way. It was a simple sort of “homecoming,” as I had quickly grown comfortable at FOB Kalsu during my previous visit. The Mississippians quickly put one at ease, southern charm a natural part of their persona. The troops there are counting down the days till their departure - Major Erby Montgomery had only 28 days left when I arrived, but who’s counting? One could feel the intangible excitement in the air and see the preparations that had begun for the BCT’s retrograde home. People are a bit happier, giddy over the prospect of leaving this place after spending the last 11 months in Iraq.

December 3, 2005

Sgt. First Class Kevin Reeves (155 BCT, PAO) and I traveled via ground convoy to FOB Iskandariyah, a small base located aboard a decrepit but operable Iraqi power plant. FOB Iskandariyah was previously occupied by a Marine Corps Battalion and was known by the name "FOB Chosin" before the Army took over, a reference to the Marine Corps legendary withdrawl from the Chosin Reservoir during the Korean conflict. The successful withdrawl of the 1st Marine Division earned Lt. General Louis B. "Chesty" Puller, himself a former VMI cadet from the class of 1921, a fifth Navy Cross, the second highest award for valor in the Navy and Marine Corps. A fitting name for the FOB, the Chosin Resevoir was also home to a hydroelectric plant during "Chesty's" heroic march. I’d heard the power plant at the FOB delivers as much as 60% of its electrical output to Baghdad, an amazing amount of power considering the distance between Iskandariyah and Baghdad.

The FOB houses several hundred soldiers and is home to a handful of Marines assigned in direct support of the Battalion. The Air Naval Gunfire Liaison Company (ANGLICO) detachment consists of one active duty Marine Major and three highly motivated enlisted Marines, all reservists from 3rd ANGLICO in Califronia. Only one other Marine, a military working dog handler, occupies the post among the hundreds of Army soldiers. As with any Marine mixed in with a band of soldiers, these "Teufelhunden" stand apart from their more casual Army counterparts. Proud of their uniform and service to the Corps, they are a great bunch of guys who handed me the proverbial "keys to their Kingdom" while I visited, their "Kingdom" a simple GP tent which serves as their living, working and entertainment space. The services they provide the 1/155th Infantry Battalion are unique; their presence will be missed in the AO when they displace to more hostile locations.

Aboard FOB Iskandariyah, little attempt has been made to improve the quality of the living conditions for the troops stationed there on a permanent basis. Although the Army took the reigns a year ago, the soldiers still live in GP tents instead of "cans" or hardstand buildings. Sandbags and concrete barriers protect them from IDF. There is no PX, post office, permanent chow hall or MWR facility, making the FOB more closely resemble accommodations found at a temporary battle position or FIRM base. Sgt. Cory Rueb, 1st Platoon Team Leader, Bravo Company, 1/155, provided this paraphrased description of the FOB…

“The amount of pollution and waste around the FOB is horrible. The FOB is a place where nobody wants to be. It is the Iraqi Love Canal. The factory constantly burns waste oil to produce power, and pools of sludge and chemical filth are everywhere. The grounds are littered with caustic bags of chemicals and other materials, and rubbish and debris are piled in shoulder high piles spread across the FOB, the size of several football fields. Smoke is constant – we’ve been warned by medical personnel about it. Noise is also constant – it’s like living next to a freeway, it never goes away. It’s indescribable. We are the only FOB in this AO still using a kitchen mobile trailer instead of KBR – the food is terrible. The food is so bad here, MRE’s are the favored choice.”

Despite the overall condition of the FOB, the staff was extremely accomodating during my stay. A visitors “VIP” tent (CP tent) is permanently set up inside a large building, probably a former power plant warehouse of some sort. The building also houses 2 other tents, one used for meetings, and the other as the personal quarters for the Battalion Commander. It’s not bad. The accommodations are quite satisfactory, it’s just the environment that needs help. If this were a base in the US, environmental health standards would have forced its closure long ago with a subsequent evacuation of all personnel to the nearest preventive medicine unit for immediate screening.

I traveled to FOB Iskandariyah in an armored Chevy Suburban similar to the SUV’s I drove through the country during my previous deployment to Basra. Our vehicle was located toward the rear of a convoy containing perhaps a dozen vehicles. It included armored HMMWV’s, semi-tractor trailer trucks, and 2 armored SUV’s. Although heavy ballistic windows and armor line the compartment, I wished I had been inside a HMMWV. There’s just something about riding in a civilian vehicle inside of a military convoy that makes one feel extremely vulnerable. As the only Officer among 5 enlisted Mississippi National Guardsmen, I was also quite the minority in that Chevy. I’m certain the soldiers weren’t too thrilled to have me in their vehicle either. In lieu of military radio traffic, a rap song was playing on the car stereo. I imagine it’s easy to get complacent after 11 months in theater. I felt neither complacent nor comfortable, however.

The short trip was eerily reminiscent of time I spent in the towns and villages of southern Iraq. Garbage strewn streets remain crowded with old cars traveling to no apparent destination. The roads are dotted with IP checkpoints every few miles. Indigent, lackluster people mill about the sides of the road doing nothing. They stare blankly at the convoy as we pass by, with no way of knowing if any of them spend their evening hours planting IED's along the routes of travel. Poverty is everywhere. I had hoped to see more improvements in the Iraqi society over the last 18 months, though the towns still put forth an image of despair and unemployment. Little seems to have occurred in the villages that would indicate a growing prosperity among the common man.

December 4, 2005

After speaking with a few more soldiers of the 1/155, I have come to the conclusion that yesterdays journal entry may have been a bit harsh. According to everyone I’ve interviewed, the AO has actually seen dramatic improvements. Despite the trash and visual disrepair of the community, it is said that many civil projects are occurring to include the repair and building of schools, IP stations, wells, farms and irrigations systems. Perhaps not all is lost. It’s hard to tell at this stage of the game. Not to mention, I only saw a small portion of the AO on my drive up from Kalsu. Perhaps I'll see other improvements on my next ride out of the FOB.

Compared to FOB Kalsu, I’ve taken some extremely interesting interviews over the last 2 days. The soldiers of the Battalion are some great storytellers. In particular, the “yarn spinning” abilities of SSgt. Randy Louis Manix (3rd Platoon Squad leader, B Company, 1/155) and SSgt. Michael Ray Cooper (Tank Section Sgt. (2-11 ACR), D Company, 1/155) peaked my interest. I listened to these guys’ stories the way I listened to my elementary school teacher reading “The Jack Tales” to my 4th grade class. I simply put down my pen and listened. Their stories were fascinating and captured my attention. Each of them effectively painted a picture of his experiences, captivating me with their country boy tales of warfare in Iraq. It was a good day.

December 6, 2005

I’m stuck at the FOB, my flight cancelled due to the volume of troops flying from FOB Iskandariyah to Kuwait. It could be worse – I have a comfortable “VIP” tent inside the Tactical Operations Center (TOC), one of the only hardstand buildings in use at the FOB. The TOC is located inside a large power plant warehouse. During the first few days the 1/155’s deployment, a number of mortar rounds and rockets landed in the compound, burning up a dozen of tents used for berthing by the soldiers. The TOC was also hit by a rocket which allegedly bounced off the roof, causing no damage. If I have to be stuck here for an extra day or two, at least I’m not in the tents outside.

The ANGLICO team has their own tent (GP large) within the compound, a luxury compared to tents filled with 25 or 30 US Army soldiers. The only Marines on the FOB, the team is manned with one active duty Major and three reserve enlisted Marines. The Marines have wisely befriended a team of IPLO civilians next door and are benefiting form that relationship. The IPLO’s have a commercial internet account strung to their tent and have run an extra connection to the ANGLICO tent for use by the team. Sometimes it pays to be the minority on base. FYI - The IPLO’s, or International Police Liaison Officers, are civilian police officers who have taken a leave of absence to come to Iraq and train the Iraqi Police, or IP.

Since I had no interviews scheduled today, I took a walk around the base, trying to capture some pictures that would show the filth and disrepair of the base. I have come to the realization that I am a horrible photographer. I will stick to my day job. None of my photos truly reflect what poor conditions these guys live in day to day. I decided to interview the Battalion SJA this morning, and am heading out in 10 minutes to catch the Chaplain, both of whom leave for home in the next day or two. I’ll also interview the remaining ANGLICO Lance Corporal from the team, and call it quits. I’ll keep my fingers crossed about getting out of here tomorrow.

December 7, 2005

Pearl Harbor Day. I Just got back in from the field this afternoon. I am pretty beat - I think I either cracked a rib or pulled something while I was out during this trip. I was a sad sight trying to get out of my sleeping bag this morning. I couldnt sit up due to the sharp pain, so I laid there for a few minutes trying to figure just how in the hell I was going to get up. I finally rolled over in the bag and crawled up slowly on my hands and knees til I could stand. Needless to say, I did not have a fun time putting on my gear (about 75 lbs) and catching a convoy this morning for anoither 45 minute ride along Iraq's bumpy roads. Even the helo ride back here was uncomfortable. I'm heading to the hospital on base tomorrow to see if they can Xray and wrap it. Nothing much I can do......

Sunset in Iraq, November 28, 2005

Field Marines and Garrison Residents

A FOB from the air - November, 2005

I've been asked to provide a description of our living conditions. To give you an idea of the varied living conditions throughout the AO (area of operations), I'll break down the areas into three primary locations - bases, FOB's and battle positions.

Battle positions, or BP’s, are where you'll find grunts from the Infantry Battalions and Combat Service Support units. They are found in locations where the Command needs a combat ready presence - in rural areas or desolate locations; at border checkpoints or within city perimeters. Regardless of their location, a BP is a location where one will find the basic Marine Corps rifleman planning his next patrol, getting some shut-eye, and awaiting his marching orders. BP’s are very basic - dirt berms and hesco barriers surround the location. Entrenched vehicle positions have been dug into the soil to provide protection from small arms fire and indirect fire (IDF). You may find some tents, lots of cammie netting and maybe a plywood building or two reinforced with plenty of sandbags. Observations posts surround the BP's since the insurgency still retains a foothold in the many of the areas we occupy. Marines sleep on the ground in sleeping bags or wherever they can find a comfortable patch of ground. They still eat MRE's and fill their camelbacks from water jugs or plastic water bottles that seemingly appear everywhere. Depending on the length of time spent at the BP, the grunts rarely enjoy a hot (or cold) shower. As they return from the field, their uniforms appear stained with days or weeks worth of perspiration, dirt and oil from vehicles and weapons. Stiff with salt, they can literally stand on their own in a corner. Basic sanitation at a BP includes wet wipes and canteen cups, while the john is initially an MRE box turned on its side and a shovel to cover your mess. Eventually, the unit Corpsman will establish a “cathole” or trenchline near the outskirts of the BP in lieu of the MRE box toilets. Established BP’s eventually receive a much needed visit from a combat engineer unit who will add more permanent Jersey and Texas barriers and build outhouses from plywood and scrap lumber. BP's contain units as small as squads to as large as reinforced Companies. When outside the wire, the troops hunker down for the night in an abandoned home or unoccupied building and "go firm", with active sentries manning rooftops or other areas of vantage.

The next higher standard of living are the FOB's (Forward Operating Bases), usually situated in an area with pre-existing buildings or structures of some sort. An abandoned railroad depot, a deserted community center, or a seized governors complex may often serve as a FOB. The area is fortified with barriers and hescos, surrounded by concertina wire and has some sense of permanence. FOB’s may contain hundreds of Marines and soldiers, and often have hardstand buildings containing offices for staff members conducting tactical planning. The buildings often serve as sleeping quarters for troops. It’s not uncommon to find a room with over 100 Marines sleeping inside, gear and weapons littering the floor. The hardstand buildings provide protection from the weather and elements and are a welcome commodity at the FOB’s. Other empty rooms are divided by crude plywood walls to form multiple work spaces for the Battalion staff, LNO’s (liaison Officers), Company staff, and clerks. FOB’s also house a small cadre of KBR contractors to serve chow and conduct various contracting services for the Marines and other units assigned to the FOB. There is usually a small but permanent chowhall serving hot meals, as well as a basic utility infrastructure which ensures the ability to run the tactical computer systems and lights aboard the FOB. Often there is enough power to light the permanent sleeping areas and outposts. You'll find a mixture of hardstand buildings, wooden SWA huts and GP tents used aboard the FOB’s for every purpose imaginable. Port-o-Johns are scattered around the area and shower trailers are towed into strategic locations, usually with strict hours of usage to conserve water. Some but not all areas have enough generators to power heating and air conditioning units in the workspaces. The troops still use their sleeping bags and field gear though, and rotate in and out of the FOB’s to smaller BP’s about the area, sharing the duties of patrolling the towns and combatting the insurgency. Generally speaking, the FOB's are pretty comfortable, though no vacation. They are the "middle class" of living conditions.

Finally, bases like Camp Fallujah, the BIAP (Baghdad International Airport), and Al Asad are all located on former Iraqi Army or Air Force bases. Camp Fallujah is jokingly referred to as Camp Falluj-eune, a mocking reference to Camp Lejeune, NC. Despite their run-down appearance, the bases are much larger in size and may house thousands of troops and dozens of units. Though all of the bases contain remnants of bombed out buildings and bunkers (many from Desert Storm or OIF 1), the military engineers and sea-bee units (Naval Construction Battalion) have made incredible strides in shoring up these sagging structures. Units have replaced or repaired damaged fencing and plumbing, emplaced barrier systems and watch towers and have repaired damaged roads. Lighting is prevalent throughout the evenings and generators hum softly, providing 24 hours of power to buildings for computers, lights and air conditioning. Port-o-johns are everywhere, as are specially designed trailers containing showers and toilets. Some of the bases have repaired their internal plumbing systems and have the limited use of permanent toilets and sinks. Civilians run amock around the bases – many from Kellogg, Brown and Root (KBR) or a host of other contractors. There are areas for visiting dignitaries and separate buildings set aside to permanently house Marines, sailors and soldiers. Other buildings are utilized as chowhalls, armories, motor transport maintenance bays, medical facilities and laundry stations. MWR (Morale Welfare and Recreation) facilties can be found at these bases, running small gyms and internet cafes and hosting poker nights and weight lifting contests. The largest bases, like Camp Anaconda, Camp Victory, and Al Asad Air Base have set up telephone trailers, Burger King and Subway stands, and Haji marts, or locally run shops. These bases have a crude, yet similar, infrastructure of permanent bases in the United States - you'll find offices in old hangars, sump buildings, literally anywhere that you can shove some people and a desk. Although everything looks dirty and appears to be falling apart, it's regal living compared to the BP’s and FOB's.

The bulk of troops, airmen and soldiers deployed to OIF live aboard these large bases and and rarely experience the harsh realities of living in a BP or FOB. Some units regularly convoy to the field or conduct security duties outside the bases, yet few actually engage in direct offensive action with the insurgency. The bases have become a garrison environment, awash with many comforts of home and overflowing with care packages labeled "any Soldier, any Marine." Most garrison residents are well-fed and rested, relatively safe within the perimeter of these large camps. Their lives become regulated more by the hours of the chowhall than the sounds of gunfire. Certainly, the ever-present possibility of indirect fire remains omnipresent, but becomes increasingly less common as the insurgency is destroyed or pushed out of Iraq. One easily discerns garrison troops from their field counterparts by the look of their uniforms - crisp and clean compared to salty and faded. The field troops look permanently weary; sleepless nights and endless days. Although all deployed servicemembers suffer the pain and anxiety of separation from loved ones, the garrison residents return home with an entirely different experience than their brothers in the field.

Nobody wants to be a garrison Marine, soldier or sailor. Everyone deployed wants to make a difference in this conflict - they want to be viewed as equals among their peers. Without question, Marines deployed in a garrison environment feel trapped within the confines of the base. Nearly every Marine, from Supply clerk to Staff Officer, yearns to travel outside the wire. Rare is the Lance Corporal who hasn't begged his Gunny to join the next convoy off of the base. They want to be out there among the grunts, lugging the ammo and squeezing the trigger. They ponder the possibility of baptism under fire; the fright of combat and the realities of conflict. They want to be in the fight yet resign themselves to their lot in life, stuck aboard the base for various reasons. It's a fate they cannot change. The phrase "Every Marine a Rifleman" rings hollow in their hearts.

Feeling my age

A light armored vehicle (LAV) heading out on patrol from 1st LAR.

Much like a gypsy wagon of yesteryear, everything they own is

strapped to the sides of the vehicle. One crewman jokingly told me it

was extra protection against shrapnel, that "any bit helps." 11/22/05

I left Al Qa'im yesterday flying "space available" status. About 75 Marines and soldiers were retrograding out of Al Qa'im at the same time, while the CH-46's and 53's kept rolling in to take them away. Loading up and taking off in clouds of dust, everything and everyone quickly resembled sugar cookies, only covered in sand instead of sugar. Fresh off the lines from Operation STEEL CURTAIN, these guys are headed back to various bases and camps spread throughout Iraq. Many are going home minus close friends and fireteam members.

Wearing full battle gear – helmet, flak and SAPI plates, sidearm, M-16A2, full pack, loaded pistol and rifle mags – man, it’s something I’ve not done for years at any length and had forgotten just how difficult it can be on the body. Hell, as a boot 2nd Lt., it was difficult. Yet as a wiser, but much older LtCol, it seems worse than I remember. I don't recall the gear being that unwieldy when I was younger. I envy the youth and energy of the young Marines around me. Mentally, I feel I’m still at my peak, but the discomfort of regularly wearing it makes me feel old and out of shape.

I awoke this morning completely unaware that today is Thanksgiving. Heading into the Camp Fallujah DFAC (dining facility), I was oblivious to the decorations posted in the chowhall. It wasn’t until I saw the serving line manned by various unit Chaplains serving turkey and stuffing that I realized today was a holiday at home. Even in Iraq, the folks are feeling the holiday spirit.

Leaving chow, I overheard some young Lance Corporals talking about their meal. I love Marines – they are the funniest people on earth. And the most vulgar. One looks over to the other and says of his meal…”man, that sh__ was fu____n’ good as f___.” Whether a noun, adjective or adverb, Marines turn cusswords into an art form. I’ve said some things close to that and only have my VMI and Marine Corps background to blame for my crude lingual habits.

Gunny Fay, the combat artist who deployed with me, also returned from Al Qaim this morning. He was out with Fox Company, 2/1 during the same time I was with the Regiment, and was proud to show me his shrapnel wound received on the 15th during the fight in Ubaydi. For those of you who haven't read my entire blog, Gunny Mike Fay is the Marine Corp's only resident combat artist, and regularly embeds with units on the front line, taking up a rifle during the fight, and occasionally snapping some photos or sketching some artwork during lulls in the action. He brought home some outstanding sketches from his travels, posted below. He's a heck of an artist, and I'm proud to announce he'll be promoted to Warrant Officer on December 1st.

An end of innocence

Insurgent weaponry - Operation STEEL CURTAIN

Seized by 3/6 and elements of RCT-2

11/19/05

The innocent victims - a child wounded by gunfire

at the Al Qaim Surgical Unit

(Forward Resuscitative Surgical System or FRSS) 11/20/05

I've spent the last week at Al Qaim, home of the Battalion, 6th Marine Regiment (3/6) and the HQ element of Regimental Combat Team 2 (RCT-2). Close to the Syrian border, the base is certainly one of the driest and dustiest (is that a word?) locations I've visited. The sand here is unlike any sand I've ever seen - it's as fine as talcum powder and one easily sinks ankle-deep into its micro fine grains. Watching the powder squirt through the lugsole treads on the sides of your boots as you walk is captivating. I liken it to the way water is displaced from the tread of a car tire on a slow-motion bridgestone commercial.

RCT-2 has taken some serious losses over the past couple days. On Wednesday morning, a report came into the TACC indicating 2/1 had suffered heavy casualties in urban fighting near Ubaydi. Marines from 2/1 had entered a courtyard and were ambushed by insurgents who attacked with IED's, gunfire and hand grenades. Before the fight was over, 3 Marines were dead, 2 were not expected to live, and another dozen or more were critically injured. One lucky Marine was shot twice in the head, only to be saved by his Kevlar helmet. The wounded Marines suffered horrible trauma; multiple gunshot wounds, fragment wounds, broken bones, leg and extremity injuries. The 2 most critically injured Marines passed away during surgery. Their passing is a loss for all of us.

The heroes of the day were the soldiers from the 571st Medical Company - Air Ambulance, aka: the "Witch Doctors." They are the flight crews who fly into harms way to rescue the wounded. They are dedicated soldiers who see the ugly side human nature every time they fly. These guys fly enter the line of fire to pull our Marines and soldiers out of harms way. They too have suffered loss, with 2 of their aircraft and crews lost over the last year.

I was inside the "FRISS" (Forward Resuscitative Surgical System) this afternoon when the "Witchdoctors" received a medevac call. The corresponding radio traffic indicated a child had received an unknown wound and needed urgent medical care. Generally, wounded civilians are not afforded treatment unless the wounds are caused by direct military action. After several minutes of "on again - off again" indecision, it was determined the child's wounds were a direct result of the ongoing actions and the bird was enroute. Minutes later, the helo touched down on the LZ, bringing in the latest victim of war. Unlike the Marines of 2/1, however, this lucky child will live to see another day.

Getting out of Dodge

Today is Sunday, although every day here blends together and there really isn’t any noticeable change of pace from day to day around the camp. I’ve had a lazy day – no interviews, just taking it easy. I slept late, went to the gym for a half-assed workout and spent the better half of the afternoon packing my gear, checking it twice.....no sense in going west without packing everything I need to live for a couple of weeks. The luxuries at Camp Fallujah are not to be found in Al Qaim.

Showtime at the LZ/AAG-DAG tonight is close to midnight, with an early (zero-dark thirty early) morning departure. I am quite relieved to be going back to the field. Sitting around Camp Fallujah without a standard duty schedule tends will wear on you and make you wish you were anywhere but here. I feel sorry for the Marines stuck inside the wire at Camp Fallujah for 6 months to a year. What a drag. I'm excited to get out of here and link up with the Division for a spell.

RCT-2 is conducting OPERATION STEEL TRAP out west near the towns of Husaybah, Al Qaim, Rawah and other locations in and around the western edge of Iraq. LtCol Chris Starling, VMI Class of ’88, is the Operations Officer and is expecting us. I e-mailed Chris to ensure that the RCT was fully aware that a couple of spare LtCol’s would be wandering around the AO. By the time I return to Fallujah, I’d like to have about 50 interviews captured from Marines who are currently in the fight. I hope to embed with a company level unit at some point and follow the young Marines who are making history. We Officers just take the credit.

I’m already planning my return flight back to the Mississippi Rifles in early December. They will be departing soon, and I don’t want to miss them before they leave. Another 25 interviews or so with the “Dixie Thunder” should suffice. I will most likely spend several days at their forward operating base (FOB) and another couple with thier subordinate task force units scattered south of Baghdad.

I conducted some interesting interviews in Camp yesterday to help pass the time and add to my collection – I interviewed LCDR Seth Phillips, one of only 7 Jewish Rabbi’s in the U.S. Navy. Rabbi (LCDR) Phillips only had 45 minutes to spend with me, so we zipped through a quick interview at the Camp Fallujah Chapel. The Rabbi grew up in Richmond, VA where he currently lives in the west end. As a Virginian who has spent quite a bit of time in Richmond, we immediately shared a common interest. A unique and informative interview….Rabbi Phillips is the acting Battalion Chaplain for 3rd Battalion, 6th Marines (3/6). Regardless of denomination, his most important task is to provide counseling, comfort, and guidance to those deployed. I asked him to urge his fellow Chaplains to volunteer for interviews over the next few months.

I also interviewed Corporal Mark James McKenna, a reserve Marine who was activated for OIF. A Squad Leader for the MEF Headquarters Group (MHG), Motor Transport Section, II MEF (Fwd), Cpl. McKenna is leaving Iraq today, heading home after spending a full tour of duty with MHG “Motor T.”

The “Motor T” Platoon is primarily responsible for security convoys and escorts throughout the AO. Cpl. McKenna participated in a total of 81 security convoys during his deployment, sometimes as a vehicle gunner and other times as the vehicle commander. Usually riding in “Gun 1,” MHG’s call sign for the first HMMWV of the security convoy, Cpl. McKenna has seen his share of the Iraqi countryside. Escorting “green gear” (Marine equipment) as well as civilian trucks and tractor-trailers, the MT Platoon has yet to experience a single catastrophic loss in their Platoon since deploying. The convoys vary from short trips of an hour or less, to a 640 mile round-trip convoy to Trebil, located on the Jordanian border.

The convoys have intercepted dozens of improvised explosive devices (IED’s), taken routine small arms fire from insurgents and witnessed the devastating effects of vehicular suicide bombers, referred to as SVBIED’s. Many young Marines in these convoys experienced their first taste of combat during these excursions, including Cpl. McKenna. Interestingly, he kept a hand-written, personal journal detailing his experiences, emotions, and after-thoughts of each convoy. When asked if he would allow his family to read the journal, he hesitated and finally said no, at least for some time to come. He wasn’t sure his entries would be understood, or accepted, by someone who had not themselves experienced the harsh reality of combat.

This will be my last post for the next week or two. Til then...

We few, we happy few, we band of brothers

On November 11, 2005, 10 Marines gathered at the Camp Fallujah Rotunda to celebrate the founding of the Virginia Military Institute, located in Lexington, Virginia. A short history of VMI can be found on their webpage at http://www.vmi.edu to include the following:

Before the formation of the Institute in 1839, its site was occupied by a military post of the State of Virginia, the storage point of arms for the western part of the Commonwealth for more than 20 years. It was shortly after the War of 1812 that an arsenal was established on the town’s outskirts.

The arsenal guard of some 20 soldiers, although living a strict military life while on duty, was lacking in self-discipline, and their leisure-time activities upset the decorum of Lexington. Plans for a change in the arsenal’s administration were discussed, and in 1834 it was proposed among Lexington’s leading citizens that the arsenal be transformed into a military college, wherein the students while protecting arms could also pursue educational courses.

Championed by a young Lexington attorney, John Thomas Lewis Preston, the plan led to legislation by the General Assembly establishing the Virginia Military Institute. It was Preston, generally credited for conceiving the idea of VMI, and later one of the original members of the faculty, who gave the new institution its name: “Virginia—a State institution, neither sectional nor denominational. Military—its characteristic feature. Institute—something different from either college or university. The three elements thus indicated are the basis of a triangular pyramid, of which the sides will preserve their mutual relation to whatever height the structure may rise.”

Though many come to VMI, not all graduate. Some depart to pursue their degree at other colleges and universities while others leave under less than honorable conditions. During World War II, many alumni took sabbaticals to fight the war, graduating years after their classmates. Our graduates pursue a variety of careers, and include many notable individuals such as as Senator Harry F. Byrd; General George C. Marshal; USAF Chief of Staff General John Jumper; Comedian and Actor Dabney Coleman; Marine legend General “Chesty” Puller; General George S. Patton (rat year) and famed sculptor and artist Moses Ezekiel. It has graduated 265 General and flag ranked officers, 6 congressional medal of honor winners, and is the only college in America to send its students into battle, resulting in the loss of 10 cadets at the battle of New Market in 1864.

We ranged from 2nd Lieutenant to Colonel, with graduation dates between 1980 and 2004. Despite the 24-year span between us, we all share a unique background unlike that experienced by any other college student in the United States, with the possible exception of the Citadel. The bonds of VMI are strong, and the term “brother rat” applies to all who have graduated or departed in good standing. We swapped stories of our cadetships at mother “I” and reminisced about our days as young cadets, the girls we dated, the road trips we made, and the fun we had during an age of innocence. It was a good night, and for a brief moment, the war in Iraq was forgotten.

Happy 230th Birthday

ON NOVEMBER 10TH, 1775, THE SECOND CONTINENTAL CONGRESS RESOLVED TO RAISE TWO BATTALIONS OF CONTINENTAL MARINES MARKING THE BIRTH OF OUR UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS. AS MAJOR GENERAL LEJEUNE'S MESSAGE REMINDS US, THE ENSUING GENERATIONS OF MARINES WOULD COME TO SIGNIFY ALL THAT IS HIGHEST IN WARFIGHTING EXCELLENCE AND MILITARY VIRTUE.

EACH NOVEMBER AS MARINES THE WORLD OVER CELEBRATE THE BIRTH OF OUR CORPS, WE PAY TRIBUTE TO THAT LONG LINE OF "SOLDIERS OF THE SEA" AND THE ILLUSTRIOUS LEGACY THEY HAVE HANDED DOWN TO US.

THIS PAST YEAR HAS BEEN ONE OF CONTINUOUS COMBAT OPERATIONS OVERSEAS AND DISTINGUISHED SERVICE HERE AT HOME - A YEAR OF CHALLENGES THAT HAVE BROUGHT OUT THE VERY BEST IN OUR CORPS. IN IRAQ AND AFGHANISTAN, MARINE COURAGE AND MASTERY OF COMPLEX AND CHAOTIC ENVIRONMENTS HAVE TRULY MADE A DIFFERENCE IN THE LIVES OF MILLIONS. MARINE COMPASSION AND FLEXIBILITY PROVIDED HUMANITARIAN ASSISTANCE TO THOUSANDS IN THE WAKE OF THE SOUTH EAST ASIAN TSUNAMI, AND HERE AT HOME, MARINES WITH AAVS, HELICOPTERS, AND SOMETIMES WITH THEIR BARE HANDS SAVED HUNDREDS OF OUR OWN FELLOW AMERICANS IN THE WAKE OF HURRICANES KATRINA AND RITA. ACROSS THE FULL SPECTRUM OF OPERATIONS, YOU HAVE SHOWCASED THAT MARINES CREATE STABILITY IN AN UNSTABLE WORLD, AND HAVE REINFORCED OUR CORPS' REPUTATION FOR SETTING THE STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE.

THE SENSE OF HONOR, COURAGE, AND PATRIOTISM THAT EPITOMIZED THOSE WHO ANSWERED THAT FIRST CALL TO ARMS 230 YEARS AGO IS STILL INDELIBLY IMPRINTED ON OUR RANKS TODAY. IN COMMEMORATING OUR ANNIVERSARY, LET US STRENGTHEN OUR TIES TO THE PAST BY PAYING HOMAGE TO THOSE WHO HAVE GONE BEFORE US. AS WE HONOR THE SACRIFICES OF OUR WOUNDED AND FALLEN COMRADES, OUR COMMITMENT TO ONE ANOTHER REMAINS UNSHAKABLE. WE TAKE SPECIAL PRIDE IN THE ACTIONS OF THE MARINES NOW SERVING IN HARM'S WAY, AND REDEDICATE OURSELVES TO THE SERVICE OF OUR NATION AND OUR CORPS.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARINES, SEMPER FIDELIS, AND KEEP ATTACKING!

M.W. HAGEE, GENERAL, U.S. MARINE CORPS, COMMANDANT OF THE MARINE CORPS

The Oasis

Chaplain Dale C. White at the Oasis, Camp Workhorse

on 11/09/05

While waiting impatiently for my helo ride out west, I have conducted several interviews at Camp Fallujah, primarily folks from the II MEF Anti-Terrorism/Force Protection cell (AT/FP). One of my interviews today was with the Regimental Chaplain at Camp Workhorse, home of Regimental Combat Team 8 (RCT-8). Chaplain Dale C. White, a United States Navy Commander (0-5) provided the first of several Chaplain interviews I hope to conduct. A personable guy, Chaplain White is a Methodist Minister who provides religious services to numerous units within the RCT, to include 1^st and 3^rd Recon Bn; 2^nd AAV’s, Tanks and TOW’s; 2^nd CEB; B 1/11; 5^th CAG and HET, to name a few.

Military Chaplains are the most overworked individuals in theater. Working 7 days a week, 365 days a year, they focus all of their efforts on the Marines and sailors who’ve experienced horrendous wounds or have seen their friends killed in battle. They spend countless hours providing grief counseling and marriage counseling; listening to the problems of our young men and women who are so far away from home. They conduct religious services on base and in the field, and offer last rites to the dead and dying.

When he’s not in the field with his Marines, Chaplain White can be found at the “Oasis,” a small office building on the outskirts of Camp Workhorse where Marines and Sailors come to get away from their troubles and find a bit of solitude as well as a friendly ear to bend. The “Oasis” has shelves stocked with health and comfort items, coffee, and snacks sent by various church groups and civic organizations that forward donations to the Chaplain. During the evenings, the Chaplain often sits on his rustic front porch of scrap wood and chomps a cigar, a habit he picked up since arriving in Iraq. Content to “hang out” with a few members of the RCT who seek a peaceful moment of rest, the Chaplain indicated his evening sit-downs draw a dozen or more Marines who aren’t otherwise out in the field fighting the insurgency. A couple months back, during just such an evening, a mortar round landed close to the “Oasis,” exploding in a nearby berm of dirt and sandbags. As Marines excitedly came running out of their spaces to see what the commotion was all about, Chaplain White remained on his porch, smoking his cigar and quietly asking the Marines to come join him for a smoke and a enjoy a moment of relaxation.

A calming factor to those who serve – isn’t that what the Chaplain Corps is
all about?

Photos that speak for themselves...

Coutesy of my PAO friends at FOB Kalsu

Back in Iraq

I've returned to Iraq from emergency leave, though I have not yet arrived at Camp Fallujah. My leave went as well as could be expected although inevitable delays caused me to miss my step-fathers viewing and funeral. Unfortunately, Marine Air is not a guaranteed form of delivery in or out of theater. When a passenger travels "Space A" (space available), he competes for a seat with other Marines, sailors and soldiers, as well as cargo, equipment and other goods. Despite the fact that emergency leave recipients are supposed to have priority, my fellow emergency leave recipients (3 Marines and 1 Sailor) were bumped off of several flights for one reason or another and did not arrive home until 5 days after we started out travel.

Our trip home took us through a series of airfields and landing zones, all traveled in the hours of darkness. One of the legs of travel took us into Baghdad, the only excitement of our journey. As we approached the city, we were greeted by small arms fire, punctuated by the glow of tracer rounds. The pilots reacted suddenly, catching us off-guard and pitching the helicopter into a sharp bank downward and starboard. The door gunners remained unfazed by the incident and didn't even attempt to return fire. As soon as it started, it was over.

The return trip to Iraq has been quite similar - having been bumped off of several flights, I am in a holding pattern at Al Asad Air base, northwest of the city of Hit. Fortunately, LtCol. Tim Crowley is keeping me entertained and has graciously allowed me to use his computer to check email and write this post. I hope to catch a flight out of here tonight for Camp Fallujah, although I will not hold my breath. I've been bumped 2 nights in a row and a 3rd may be forthcoming.

I am residing in the transient tent located yards from the Al Asad airstrip. Also living in the tent are Marines and soldiers from various units, all awaiting transportation out of theater or to other FOBs or bases in Iraq. The tent is large and fairly comfortable, with wooden pallets for flooring and portable heaters located inside the tent. Since my departure 2 weeks ago, the weather has changed and I have returned to a more seasonal climate with balmy days and chilly evenings. Were it not for the fact that I "appropriated" a blanket and pillow from my Northwest Airlines flight, I'd be shivering uncomfortably at night. Far from a field environment, it is still somewhat less than ideal. Being located so close to the airstrip, the roar of the engines of C-5's, C-17's, F-18's, E-8 Prowlers and various helicopters throughout the night keeps the evening air alive with noise. There's nothing quite like the sound of the afterburners from a Marine fighter launching skyward at 3 a.m. It is the sound of freedom, however, and I shouldn't complain.

I've got a few loose ends to wrap up at Camp Fallujah before heading westward with 2nd Marine Division. Tim and I will attempt to "blitz" the Division in a quick 2-week effort of collections. Stay posted.